“The quality of Venice that accomplishes what religion so often cannot is that Venice has made peace with the waters. It is not merely pleasant that the sea flows through, grasping the city like tendrils of vine, and, depending upon the light, making alleys and avenues of emerald and sapphire, Citi s a brave acceptance of dissolution and an unflinching settlement with death. Though in Venice you may sit in courtyards of stone, and your heels may click up marble stairs, you cannot move without riding upon or crossing the waters that someday will carry you in dissolution to the sea.”
― Mark Helprin,
You’ve heard me rave about Venice before so it will come as no surprise that after my third visit to the serene city I still feel the desire to return. We stayed in a small hotel called the Locanda La Corte not far from Rialto Bridge and close to the Ospedale vaporetto stop, perfect for walking to the city’s main attractions. The window of our hotel room opened onto a canal, it was ideal for us and there were many moments when all I wanted to do was look out that window, listen to the seagulls and watch the world float by. Of an afternoon, when the sun was shining, the reflection of the waves could be seen on the wall and ceiling of our room creating a feeling of calm.
Being Autumn the number of tourists seemed lower than on my previous visits in Spring and Summer, but still the streets and main squares were crowded. Away from the main attractions such as St Mark’s Basilica and the Rialto Bridge we could stroll freely and without interference from people armed with selfie sticks and those trying to sell them. It was the quieter alleys and squares that I love, although feeling like an intruder armed with a camera and invading a local’s personal space. One morning I left hubby at the hotel while I went out for a walk, camera in hand I decided to venture into a part of Venice that I had not seen, Cannaregio. I didn’t make it very far and found myself standing on the edge of the island and looking towards the Island of San Michele and in the background, snow covered mountains. It was shaping up to be a beautiful day, ideal for hopping on a boat and heading to the islands of Burano and Torcello which is exactly what we did.
Venice is often described as a theme park, attracting millions of visitors all year round and it is easy to get caught up in the hype and complain about how expensive everything is and how it is difficult to find a good, affordable meal. On Burano there are a dozen or more places to eat on the main street where all the tourists go, a couple of locals recommended two restaurants but they were packed so we sat down to a meal of fried calamari and chips (fries or frites) by the water. The food was cheap and fresh and not far from the vaporetto stop. Our favourite cheap eat find was a little place not far from the Rialto Bridge, I had read about it in a couple of guide books and expected it to be full of budget conscious tourists like us. Rosticceria Gislon is not what you would expect in a seemingly tourist area, it looks like a cafeteria and offers pre-prepared food at a good price, it was also crammed with locals (or Italian speaking tourists). We had three great meals at Rosticceria Gislon, one of the most memorable (and cheap) being the deep fried mozzarella and ham sandwiches…delicious!
I cannot imagine what it must be like to live in a centuries old city such as Venice, one that is never free of the hoardes of tourists whilst also having to manage the impact of high tides and rising sea levels. The eery beauty of this city appeals greatly to me, I have always wanted to spend a few months living in Venice however I wonder if the enchantment would wear off during an extended stay. In the meantime, editing all my photos and remembering our time in Venice will have to suffice.
Venice was our introduction to Italy, the first Italian destination on our European holiday and to say we were excited is a bit of an understatement. We had four nights booked at the Locanda Ca’ Valeri not far from the Doges Palace and the Arsenale and the only thing we had planned for our stay was to visit the port city of Trieste and to ‘get lost’ in the maze of streets that make up the city of Venice.
Upon arrival at the train station the realisation that we were in Italy hit us, it is a beautiful sunny Sunday and the number of tourists and day trippers at the station was overwhelming. We were excited and nervous at the same time, I’m sure that our mouths were wide open in awe but we were also attempting to keep our wits about us and not let our bags out of our sight. 13 euros bought us two tickets on the vaporetto and although it is jam-packed we have managed to claim a great spot for taking in the views along the Grand Canal without blocking anybody’s path on and off the vaporetto.
Once we had found and settled into our hotel room we set off to explore the city and find a Tourist Information office and find out about getting to and from Trieste. Piazza San Marco (St Mark’s Square) was the natural first stop, it was also were we picked up a couple of panini for lunch but we weren’t allowed to sit and picnic on or near the square so we found a quiet little spot near a canal and some luxury shops where we could eat in peace.
During our stay in Venice we did manage to visit some of the recommended sights such as the Frari Church and Rialto Bridge however we spent most of our time wandering through the streets, stopping to eat at a small snack bar or taste a new flavour of gelato. We got lost gawking at window displays featuring masks, costumes and Venetian glass, turning left or right depending on what appealed to us at the time or what photo opportunity lay ahead. One day we found ourselves on the point of Dorsoduro, looking at a sculpture of a boy holding a frog with the water and St Mark’s as the backdrop, another day we walked to Fondamente Nuovo via the San Giovanni Church and the Hospital, there are less people here and we stand on a bridge watching a funeral procession on the canal below us. We did not see inside St Mark’s Basilica or the Doges Palace because the crowds were offputting and although it was on my to-do list I did not venture into the Peggy Guggenheim museum, the joy of walking through the streets of Venice and watching the colours change as the sun rose and then set was enough for me. We were probably very lucky during our stay, the days were warm and the skies were clear with not a rain cloud in sight, walking around of a night was also beautiful (and safe), glass lamps of all shapes, sizes and colour lit the way and in St Mark’s we could stand and listen to the bands playing outside the cafes.
My expectations for Venice were high, 12 years ago I had visited the city on a tour and fallen in love with it and I was worried that it would not meet my expectations during this trip. There was no need to worry, although many consider Venice a ‘theme park’ for tourists and too expensive to stay for longer than a day or two, I fell in love all over again and still consider it to be one of my favourite Italian cities.